Dr. Des Fernandes is a leading figure in skin rejuvenation, known worldwide for creating the original microneedling protocol.
His groundbreaking work has transformed how professionals approach collagen stimulation and scar treatment.
In this article, we provide an in-depth analysis of the Dr. Des Fernandes microneedling protocol. We will explore its scientific basis and offer practical implementation techniques.
This microneedling protocol stands out not only for its effectiveness but also for its versatility, making it a widely embraced method in the skincare industry.
To enhance post-treatment recovery and radiance, we recommend incorporating topical applications such as Bradceuticals Gold Mesenchymal Stem Cell Growth Factor Serum. This serum has been proven to deliver a remarkable glow and facilitate optimal healing following microneedling sessions.
Furthermore, we would like to highlight the benefits of combining microneedling with stem cells, an innovative treatment that is gaining traction in 2024 due to its exceptional outcomes in skin rejuvenation.
For those seeking practical guidance on cosmetic microneedling techniques or looking to enhance their results by incorporating growth factors into their existing microneedling protocol, this article serves as a comprehensive resource.
Understanding Microneedling and Its Benefits
Microneedling is a minimally invasive skin procedure that uses fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the upper dermis. This deliberate stimulation sets off a cascade of wound-healing responses, encouraging the synthesis of new collagen and elastin—key factors in youthful, resilient skin.
Microneedling benefits include:
- Wrinkle reduction: Fine lines and deeper wrinkles become less pronounced as collagen fills in creases.
- Scar improvement: Acne scars and other textural irregularities smooth out through gradual skin remodeling.
- Skin texture enhancement: Pores appear tighter, and overall tone becomes more even.
According to Dr. Des Fernandes, author of Percutaneous Collagen Induction, understanding skin healing time after needling is essential for safe, effective treatments that maximize results without unnecessary downtime. Consistent application of these principles leads to visible improvements while respecting the skin’s natural regenerative capacity.
Overview of Dr. Des Fernandes’ Microneedling Protocol
The Dr Des Fernandes microneedling protocol is designed to optimize skin regeneration through careful decisions in equipment and timing. The protocol specifies a needle size for microneedling: 1.0 mm. This length is chosen because it can effectively target the papillary dermis, stimulating collagen production without causing too much damage or downtime.
Another important aspect of the protocol is the frequency of microneedling sessions. Dr. Fernandes advises having 4 to 6 sessions spaced every 4–10 days. This regular schedule allows for gradual collagen remodeling while giving the skin enough time to heal between treatments.
Here are the key elements of Dr. Fernandes’ approach:
- 1.0 mm needle length: Effective for stimulating new collagen while maintaining safety.
- 4–6 sessions per course: Encourages visible improvement in texture and elasticity.
- 4–10 day intervals: Balances ongoing stimulation with sufficient healing, reducing risk of inflammation or over-treatment.
The reasoning behind this protocol comes from understanding how wounds heal—by causing moderate injuries frequently, we can signal fibroblasts to efficiently remodel tissue, resulting in firmer, smoother skin.
Step 1: Pre-Treatment Skin Preparation
A thorough pre-treatment routine is crucial for both the safety and success of the Dr. Des Fernandes microneedling protocol. Any leftover residue or bacteria on the skin can increase the risk of infection during the procedure.
Cleansing
Using a gentle, non-irritating cleanser, we cleanse the skin to remove oil, dirt, and makeup.
Disinfection
Next, we apply a topical antiseptic such as chlorhexidine or 70% isopropyl alcohol to ensure the skin surface is as sterile as possible.
Proper Numbing
To significantly reduce discomfort during the procedure, we recommend applying topical anesthesia—commonly lidocaine-based creams—across the treatment area at least 20–30 minutes before microneedling begins. This step allows for a more comfortable experience without compromising skin integrity.
By paying attention to these details in pre-treatment preparation, we not only enhance patient comfort but also support optimal collagen induction results by minimizing procedural risks.
Consistently following the steps of cleansing, disinfection, and anesthesia application sets a strong foundation for what comes next in the protocol.
Step 2: Choosing the Right Equipment and Technique
Choosing the right tools is crucial in the Dr. Des Fernandes microneedling method. The original stamping device created by Dr. Fernandes established a standard for safety and accuracy in procedures, ensuring consistent needle depth and minimizing damage to the skin. With advancements in technology, we now have tools like the Derminator, an automated device that offers quick, controlled punctures for more efficient treatments and easy-to-use operation.
Important factors to consider when choosing tools and techniques:
- Needle Length: Use 1.0 mm needles as specified in Dr. Fernandes’ protocol for optimal dermal penetration.
- Technique: Aim for uniform coverage—multiple passes with even pressure ensure full treatment of the target area.
- Pin-point Bleeding: This is a reliable clinical endpoint. You want to see fine beads of blood at the skin’s surface, indicating adequate collagen stimulation without excessive injury.
- Device Evolution: Traditional stamping devices remain effective, but automated devices like the Derminator deliver consistent results with reduced operator fatigue.
The precision in selecting techniques and technologies directly affects the effectiveness of the treatment and the comfort of the patient, laying the groundwork for successful collagen induction therapy.
Step 3: Performing the Microneedling Procedure with Controlled Intensity
Precision and consistency are key when following Dr. Des Fernandes’ in-office microneedling procedure steps. Each movement is deliberate to strike a balance between efficacy and safety.
1. Sectioning the Face
Divide the face into zones (forehead, cheeks, chin, nose) to ensure thorough, even coverage.
2. Applying the Device
Hold the microneedling device perpendicular to the skin. Use steady, gentle pressure—never forceful or rushed.
3. Pattern and Passes
Move the device in a systematic pattern: horizontal, vertical, then diagonal passes over each section. Two to three passes per direction are standard for optimal collagen stimulation without excess trauma.
4. Visual Feedback
Watch for uniform pin-point bleeding as a sign of effective dermal penetration; excessive bleeding indicates you need to reduce intensity or pressure.
5. Monitoring Patient Comfort
Check in with the patient about pain and adjust technique if necessary; controlled intensity minimizes discomfort while maximizing results.
This methodical approach ensures every treatment is both effective and safe, setting up ideal conditions for post-procedure recovery and enhanced outcomes.
Step 4: Post-Treatment Care and Topical Applications for Enhanced Healing
Immediate care after microneedling shapes the quality of your results. Dr. Des Fernandes’ microneedling protocol emphasizes the importance of post-needling topical application to accelerate healing and stimulate optimal collagen production.
Clean hands and sterile tools remain essential during this phase. Apply a soothing, regenerative serum immediately post-procedure—products containing growth factors, peptides, or hyaluronic acid are preferred. Bradceuticals Gold Mesenchymal Stem Cell Growth Factor Serum stands out for its ability to promote rapid recovery and impart a visible glow. Avoid occlusive balms or heavy creams that may trap heat or bacteria in freshly needled skin.
Key considerations include:
- Gentle patting, not rubbing, when applying serums
- Avoiding active ingredients like retinol or strong acids in the first 48 hours
- Hydrating mist or thermal water spray can calm redness and support barrier repair
The right post-needling topical application supports fibroblast activity, reduces inflammation, and maximizes the benefits of the dr des fernandes microneedling protocol. This step sets the foundation for continued collagen remodeling in the days following treatment.
Scientific Basis Behind The Protocol’s Effectiveness
Microneedling’s power lies in the way it harnesses the body’s natural healing mechanisms. When needles create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, two key biological messengers are activated: TGF beta 3 (Transforming Growth Factor beta 3) and Epidermal Growth Factors. Their role is critical for healthy collagen remodeling.
- TGF beta 3 initiates a cascade that guides fibroblasts to produce new, well-organized collagen and elastin, which translates into firmer, smoother skin. Unlike TGF beta 1 or 2, TGF beta 3 is especially associated with scarless wound healing—making it ideal for aesthetic treatments.
- Epidermal Growth Factors accelerate cell proliferation and migration, supporting faster re-epithelialization and enhancing the skin’s repair capacity.
Scientific evidence shows that microneedling significantly increases these growth factors in treated areas. This process not only boosts collagen density but also optimizes skin texture and resilience without triggering abnormal scarring or pigmentation.
Frequency, Timing Considerations, Risks, and Safety Measures in Dr. Fernandes’ Protocol for Optimal Results with Minimal Risks
Frequency of microneedling sessions is a critical variable in Dr. Fernandes’ protocol. Sessions are spaced every 4 to 10 days—this window is intentional. Allowing several days between treatments gives the skin adequate time to initiate its repair cascade and produce new collagen without overwhelming the healing process. Consistent stimulation at this interval maximizes results but avoids overstressing the skin.
Risks increase when treatments are performed too frequently or with excessive intensity. Overzealous needling can trigger unwanted inflammation, pigment changes, or even worsen scarring. Aggressive protocols put patients at higher risk for delayed healing, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), or infection—especially if aftercare is neglected.
Patient screening is non-negotiable. Certain medical conditions impact wound healing:
- Autoimmune disorders (such as lupus or scleroderma)
- History of keloids or hypertrophic scarring
- Active infections or open wounds in the treatment area
Thorough assessment ensures only suitable candidates proceed, minimizing complications and optimizing outcomes. Adhering to the recommended frequency of microneedling sessions and observing strict hygiene standards provides a foundation for safe and effective collagen induction therapy.
The protocol’s structure allows consistent improvement while protecting skin barrier integrity—an essential balance before considering any combination therapies for enhanced results.
Combining Microneedling with Other Treatments for Enhanced Results: TCA Peel, anteAGE MD Package, Lymph Drainage, Sonophoresis
Combining the Dr. Des Fernandes microneedling protocol with specific complementary therapies can enhance clinical outcomes. This strategic combination takes advantage of the strengths of each treatment method:
1. TCA Peel (Trichloroacetic Acid Peel)
Applying a medium-depth TCA peel before or after microneedling enhances skin resurfacing and pigment correction. The chemical exfoliation prepares the outer layer of skin for better absorption of active ingredients after microneedling, speeding up collagen remodeling and reducing stubborn pigmentation.
2. anteAGE MD Package
Growth factor-rich serums such as those in the anteAGE MD package support post-needling recovery by delivering concentrated cytokines and peptides. Application immediately after needling maximizes absorption through microchannels, promoting faster healing and more robust dermal regeneration.
3. Lymph Drainage
Manual lymphatic drainage or device-assisted therapy reduces swelling and speeds up toxin removal from treated areas. Integrating lymph drainage into post-microneedling care minimizes downtime and supports visible improvements in skin clarity.
4. Sonophoresis
Ultrasound-based sonophoresis drives topical actives deep into the skin after microneedling. This technology takes advantage of increased permeability, ensuring that calming serums or growth factors penetrate effectively for superior results.
Combining these treatments allows practitioners to customize protocols to patient needs, often resulting in quicker recovery times, brighter complexion, and more dramatic texture refinement compared to standalone procedures. Each element—chemical peel, regenerative serum, lymphatic support, or ultrasound—plays a specific role in optimizing results when used alongside the Dr. Des Fernandes microneedling protocol.
Specific Applications: Microneedling for Acne Scarring with Dr Setterfield Techniques Comparison
Microneedling for acne scars requires a protocol that balances intensity and safety. Dr. Des Fernandes’ approach uses a 1.0 mm needle at consistent intervals, targeting controlled collagen induction without causing excessive trauma. This method encourages the gradual remodeling of scarred tissue, leading to smoother skin texture over multiple sessions.
Key aspects of Dr. Fernandes’ protocol when treating acne scars:
- Controlled Depth: The 1.0 mm needle length is effective for reaching the dermis where most atrophic scars reside, stimulating collagen in precisely the layer needed.
- Session Frequency: Regular treatments spaced 4–10 days apart optimize collagen remodeling while allowing necessary healing time, reducing risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation—a common concern in acne-prone skin.
Dr. Lance Setterfield, another respected authority on microneedling, recommends a slightly less aggressive approach for acne scarring. His technique often involves:
- Longer Intervals: Sessions spaced 4–6 weeks apart to allow full collagen maturation between treatments.
- Variable Needle Lengths: Adjusting depth based on scar type and location, sometimes exceeding 1.0 mm for deeper rolling or boxcar scars.
Dr. Fernandes’ method prioritizes cumulative stimulation with shorter intervals and consistent depth, while Dr. Setterfield emphasizes individualized depth selection and longer recovery periods.
Both protocols share an evidence-based focus on controlled injury to induce natural repair mechanisms. For practitioners and patients choosing microneedling for acne scars, understanding these distinctions helps tailor treatment plans to individual needs and desired outcomes.
Conclusion
Following the principles of Dr. Des Fernandes’ microneedling protocol—structured sessions, precise timing, and careful healing intervals—leads to consistent results in skin rejuvenation. Consistency, patience, and professional guidance are essential for an effective microneedling treatment plan. Dr. Des Fernandes’ legacy sets a high standard for safe collagen induction, helping you avoid over-treatment while maximizing your skin’s potential. By following best practices and understanding the science behind healing timelines, each session will bring you closer to visible transformation and healthier, more resilient skin.
Reference articles
http://www.skinremodelingdiy.com/blog/update-on-frequency-and-needle-length-for-skin-needling
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6557229
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About Bradceuticals : Thuy Myers is the founder of Bradceuticals which manufactures and distributes skin care and hair regrowth serums that use growth factors from human stem cells as the catalyst for regeneration. When she is not busy running the business and maintaining blogs, she is continuing her practice as a semiconductor engineer and occasionally teaches college engineering. In her free time, she enjoys the beach, working out at the gym and hanging out with her kiddo Brad.